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Notebook, 1993-
Il Libro dell' Arte - Cennino
D' Andrea Cennini. The Craftsman's Handbook. The Italian
"Il Libro dell' Arte." Translated by Daniel
V. Thompson, Jr. New York: Dover Publications, Inc.
1933, by Yale University Press.
Notes 1-50 Notes 51-124 Notes 125-162 Notes 163-283
S e c t i o n I
Here begins the Craftsman's Handbook, made and composed
by Cennino of Colle, in the reverence of God, and of
The Virgin Mary, and of Saint Eustace, and of Saint
Francis, and of Saint John Baptist, and of Saint Anthony
of Padua, and, in general, of all the Saints of God;
and in the reverence of Giotto, of Taddeo and of Agnolo,
Cennino's master; and for the use and good and profit
of anyone who wants to enter this profession. [p. 1]
The First Chapter of the First Section of This Book
In the beginning, when Almighty God created heaven and
earth, above all animals and foods he created man and
woman in his own image, endowing them with every virtue.
Then, because of the misfortune which fell upon Adam,
through envy, from Lucifer, who by his malice and cunning
beguiled him--or rather, Eve, and then Eve, Adam--into
sin against the Lord's command: because of this, therefore,
God became angry with Adam, and had him driven, him
and his companion, forth out of Paradise, saying to
them: Inasmuch as you have disobeyed the command which
God gave you, by your struggles and exertions you shall
carry on your lives.' And so Adam, recognizing the error
which he had committed, after being so royally endowed
by God as the source, beginning, and father of us all,
realized theoretically that some means of living by
labor had to be found. And so he started with the spade,
and Eve, with spinning. Man afterward pursued many useful
occupations, differing from each other; and some were,
and are, more theoretical than others; they could not
all be alike, since theory is the most worthy. Close
to that, man pursued some related to the one which calls
for a basis of that, coupled with skill of hand: and
this is an occupation known as painting, which calls
for imagination, and skill of hand, in order to discover
things not seen, hiding themselves under the shadow
of natural objects, and to fix them[1] with the hand,
presenting to plain sight what does not actually exist.
And it justly deserves to be enthroned next to theory,
and to be [p. 2] crowned with poetry. The justice lies
in this: that the poet, with his theory, though he have
but one, it makes him worthy, is free to compose and
bind together, or not, as he pleases, according to his
inclination. In the same way, the painter is given freedom
to compose a figure, standing, seated, half-man, half-horse,
as he pleases, according to his imagination. So then,
either as a labor of love for all those who feel within
them a desire to understand; or as a means of embellishing
these fundamental theories with some jewel, that they
may be set forth royally, without reserve; offering
to these theories whatever little understanding God
has granted me, as an unimportant practicing member
of the profession of painting: I, Cennino, the son of
Andrea Cennini of Colle di Val d'Elsa, -[I was trained
in this profession for twelve years by my master, Agnolo
di Taddeo of Florence; he learned this profession from
Taddeo, his father; and his father was christened under
Giotto, and was his follower for four-and-twenty years;
and that Giotto changed the profession of painting from
Greek back into Latin, and brought it up to date; and
he had more finished craftsmanship than anyone has had
since], -to minister to all those who wish to enter
the profession, I will make note of what was taught
me by the aforesaid Agnolo, my master, and of what I
have tried out with my own hand: first invoking [the
aid of] High Almighty God, the Father, Son, and Holy
Ghost; then [of] that most delightful advocate of all
sinners, Virgin Mary; and of Saint Luke, the Evangelist,
the first Christian painter; and of my advocate, Saint
Eustace; and, in general, of all the Saints of paradise,
A M E N. [pp. 1-2]
How Some Enter The Profession Through Loftiness of
Spirit, and Some, For Profit.
Chapter II
It is not without the impulse of a lofty spirit that
some are moved to enter this profession, attractive
to them through natural enthusiasm. Their intellect
will take delight in drawing, provided their nature
attracts them to it of themselves, without any master's
guidance, out of loftiness of spirit. And the, through
this delight, they come to want to find a master; and
they bind themselves to him with respect for authority,
undergoing an apprenticeship in order to achieve perfection
[p. 2] in all this. There are those who pursue it, because
of poverty and domestic need, for profit and enthusiasm
for the profession too; but above all these are to be
extolled the ones who enter the profession through a
sense of enthusiasm and exaltation. [pp. 2-3]
Fundamental Provisions For Anyone Who Enters This
Profession.
Chapter III
You, therefore, who with lofty spirit are fired with
this ambition, and are about to enter the profession,
begin by decking yourselves with this attire: Enthusiasm,
Reverence, Obedience, and Constancy. And begin to submit
yourself to the direction of a master for instruction
as early as you can; and do not leave the master until
you have to. [p. 3]
How The Schedule Shows You Into How Many Sections
And Branches The Occupations Are Divided.
Chapter IIII
The basis of the profession, the very beginning of all
these manual operations, is drawing and painting. These
two sections call for a knowledge of the following:
how to work up or grind, how to apply size, to put on
cloth, to gesso, to scrape the gessos and smooth them
down, to model with gesso, to lay bole, to gild, to
burnish; to temper, to lay in; to pounce, to scrape
through, to stamp or punch; to mark out, to paint, to
embellish, and to varnish, on panel or ancona.[2] To
work on a wall you have to wet down, to plaster, to
true up, to smooth off, to draw, to paint in fresco.
To carry to completion in secco: to temper, to embellish,
to finish on the wall. And let this be the schedule
of the aforesaid stages which I, with what little knowledge
I have acquired, will expound, section by section. [p.
3]
How you Begin Drawing On A Little Panel; And The
System For It.
Chapter V
As has been said, you begin with drawing. You ought
to have the most elementary system, so as to be able
to start drawing. First take a little boxwood panel,
nine inches wide in each direction; all smooth and clean,
that is, washed with clear water; rubbed and smoothed
down with cuttle such as the goldsmiths use for casting.
And when this little panel is thoroughly dry, take enough
bone, ground diligently for two hours, to serve the
purpose; and the finer it is, the better. Scrape it
up afterward, take it and keep it wrapped up in a paper,
dry. And when you need some for priming this little
panel, take less than half a bean of this bone, or even
less. And stir this bone up with saliva. Spread it all
over the little panel with your fingers; and, before
it gets dry, hold the little panel in your left hand,
and tap over the panel with the finger tip of your right
hand until you see that it is quite dry. And it will
get coated with bone as evenly in one place as in another.
[p. 4]
How To Draw On Several Kinds of Panels.
Chapter VI
For that purpose, a little panel of old fig wood is
good; and also certain tablets which tradesmen use,
which consist of sheep parchment gessoed and coated
with white lead in oil,[3] following the treatment with
bone according to the system described. [p. 4]
Silver-Point Drawing - What kind of Bone is God For
Treating the Panels
Chapter VII
You must know what bone is good. Take bone from the
second joints and wings of fowls, or of a capon, and
the older the are the better. Just as you find them
under the dining-table, put them in the fire; and when
you see that they have turned whiter than ashes, draw
them out, and grind them well in the porphyry; and use
it as I say above.
How You Should Start Drawing with a Style, and by
What Light
Chapter VIII
The thigh bone of a gelded lamb is good, too, and the
shoulder, calcined in the way described. And then take
a style of silver, or brass, or anything else, provided
the ends be of silver,[4] fairly slender, smooth, and
handsome. Then, using a model, start to copy the easiest
possible subjects, to get your hand in; and run the
style over the little panel so lightly that you can
hardly make out what you first start to do; strengthening
your strokes little by little, going back many times
to produce the shadows. And the darker you want to make
the shadows in the accents, the more times you go back
to them; and so, conversely, go back over the reliefs
only a few times. And let the helm and steersman of
this power to see be the light of the sun, the light
of your eye, and your own hand; for without these three
things nothing can be done systematically. But arrange
to have the light diffused when you are drawing; and
have the sun fall on your left side. And with that system
set yourself to practice drawing, drawing only a little
each day, so that you may not come to lose your taste
for it, or get tired of it. [p. 5]
How You Should Give The System of Lighting, Light
or Shade, To Your Figures, Endowing Them With a System
of Relief
Chapter VIIII
If, by chance, when you are drawing or copying in chapels,
or painting in other adverse situations, you happen
not to be able to get the light off your hand, or the
way you want it, proceed to give the relief to your
figures, or rather, drawing, according to the arrangement
of the windows which you find in these places, for they
have to give you the lighting. And so, following the
lighting, whichever side it comes from, apply your relief
and shadow, according to this system. And if it happens
that the light comes or shines through the center straight
ahead, or in full glory, apply your relief in the same
way, light and dark, by this system. And if the light
shines from one window larger than the others in these
places, always follow the dominant lighting; and make
it your careful duty to analyze it, and follow it through,
because, if it failed in this respect, your work would
be lacking in relief, and would come out a shallow thing,
of little mastery. [p. 6]
The method and System for Drawing on Sheep Parchment
and on Paper[5], and Shading with Washes
Chapter X
To get back to our main track: you may also draw on
sheep parchment and on paper. On the parchment you may
draw or sketch with this style of yours if you first
put some of that bone, dry and powdered, [p. 6] like
dust or pouncing rosin, all over the parchment, sprinkling
it on, spreading it about, and dusting it off with a
hare's foot. If, after you have drawn with the style,
you want to clear up the drawing further, fix it with
ink at the points of accent and stress. And then shade
the folds with washes of ink; that is, as much water
as a nutshell would hold, with two drops of ink in it;
and shade with a brush made of minever tails, rather
blunt, and almost always dry. And so, according to the
darks, you make the wash blacker in this way with more
little drops of ink. And you may likewise work and shade
with colors and with clothlets[6] such as the illuminators
use; the colors tempered with gum, or with clear white
of egg well beaten and liquefied. [pp. 6-7]
How You May Draw with a Leaden Style
Chapter XI
You may also draw, without any bone, on this parchment[7]
with a style of lead; that is, a style made of two parts
lead and one part tin, well beaten with a hammer. [p.
7]
How, If You Have Made a Slip in Drawing with The
Leaden Style, You May Erase It, and By What Means
Chapter XII
On paper you may draw with the aforesaid lead without
bone, and likewise with bone. And if you ever make a
slip, so that you want to [p. 7] remove some stroke
made by this little lead, take a bit of the crumb of
some bread, and rub it over the paper, and you will
remove whatever you wish. And you may shade on this
paper in the same way with ink, with colors, and with
clothlets, using the temperas aforesaid. [pp. 7-8]
How You Should Practice Drawing with a Pen
Chapter XIII
When you have put in a year, more or less, at this exercise,
according to what liking or enjoyment you have taken,
you may sometimes just draw on paper with a pen. Have
it cut fine; and then draw nicely and work up your lights,
half lights, and darks gradually, going back to them
many times with the pen. And if you want your drawings
to come out a little more seductive, put some little
washes on them, as I told you before, with a blunt minever
brush. Do you realize what will happen to you if you
practice drawing with a pen? -That it will make you
expert, skilful, and capable of much drawing out of
our own head. [p. 8]
How to Learn to Cut the Quill for Drawing
Chapter XIIII
If you need to learn how this goose quill should be
cut, get a good, firm quill, and take it, upside down,
straight across the two fingers of your left hand; and
get a very nice sharp penknife, and make a horizontal
cut one finger along the quill; and cut it by drawing
the knife towards you, taking care that the cut runs
even and through the middle of the quill. And then put
the knife back on one of the edges of this quill, say
on the left side, which faces you, and pare it, and
taper it off toward the point. And cut the other side
to the same curve, and bring it down to the same point.
Then turn the pen around the other side up, and lay
it over your left thumb nail; and carefully, bit by
bit, pare and cut that little tip;[8] and make the shape
broad or fine, whichever you want, either for drawing
or for writing. [p. 8]
How You Should Advance to Drawing on Tinted Paper
Chapter XV
To approach the glory [of the profession][9] step by
step, to start trying to discover the entrance and gateway
to painting, you should take up a system of drawing
different from the one which we have been discussing
up to now. And this is known as drawing on tinted paper;
either paper, that is, or parchment. Let them be tinted;
for one is tinted in the same way as the other, and
with the same tempera. And you may make your tints inclined
toward pink, or violet, or green; or bluish, or greenish
gray, that is, drab colors; or flesh colored, or any
way you please; for they all take the same temperas,
the same time for grinding the colors; and you may draw
on them all by the same method. It is true that most
people generally use the green tint, and it is most
usual, both for shading down and for putting lights
on. Although I am going to describe later on the grinding
of all the colors, and their characters, and their temperas,
I will give you briefly a short method now, to get you
started on your drawing and your tinting of the papers.
[p. 9]
How the Green Tint is Made on Paper for Drawing;
and The Way to Temper It.
Chapter XVI
When you want to tint a kid parchment, or a sheet of
paper, take as much as half a nut of terre-verte; a
little ocher, half as much as that; and solid white
lead to the amount of half the ocher; and as much as
a bean of bone dust, using the bone which I described
to you above for drawing; and as much as half a bean
of vermilion. And grind all these things up well on
the porphyry slab with well or spring or river water;
and grind them as much as ever you can stand grinding
them, [p. 9] For they can never be done too much; because
the more you grind them, the more perfect tint it becomes.
Then temper the aforesaid substances with size of the
following quality and strength: get a leaf of druggists'
glue, not fish glue, and put it into a pipkin to soak,
for the space of six hours, in as much clear, clean
water as two common goblets will hold. Then put this
pipkin on the fire to temper it; and skim it when it
boils. When it has boiled a little, so that you see
that the glue is all dissolved, strain it twice. Then
take a large paint pot, big enough for these ground
colours, and put in enough of this size to make it flow
freely from the brush. And choose a good-sized soft
bristle brush. Then take that paper of yours which you
wish to tint; lay some of this tint evenly over the
ground of your paper, running your hand lightly, with
the brush about half dry, first in one direction and
then in the other. And put on three or four coats of
it in this way or five, until you see that the paper
is tinted evenly. And wait long enough between one coat
and the next for each coat to dry. And if you see that
it gets shriveled from your tinting, or horny from the
tinting mixture, it is a sign that the tempera is too
strong; and so, while you are laying the first coat,
remedy this. How? --Put in some clear warm water. When
it is dry and done, take a penknife, and rub lightly
over the tinted sheet with the blade, so as to remove
any little roughness that there may be on it.
How You Should Tint Kid Parchment, And By Which Method
You Should Burnish It.
Chapter XVII
When you want to tint kid parchment, you should first
soak it in spring or well water until it gets all wet
and soft. Then, stretching it over a board, like a drumskin,
fasten it down with big-headed nails, and apply the
tints to it in due course, as described above. If it
should come about that the paper or parchment is not
smooth enough to suit you, take this paper, and lay
it on a walnut board, or on a flat, smooth slab; then
put a sheet of good clean paper over the one which you
have tinted; and, with the stone for burnishing and
working gold, burnish with considerable strength of
hand; and so, in this way, [p. 10] it will get soft
and smooth. It is true that some people like very much
to burnish directly on the tinted paper, that is, to
have the burnishing stone touch it and penetrate it,
so that it acquires a little polish. You may do as you
please, but that first method of mine is better. The
reason is this: that rubbing the burnishing stone over
the tint offsets, by reason of its polish, the polish
of the style when you draw; and furthermore the washes
which you put on with your ink[10] do not look so well
blended and clear on this as in the method first described.
But, nevertheless, do as you please.
How You Should Tint Paper Turnsole Color.[11]
Chapter XVIII
Now apply yourself to the making of these tints. To
tint your paper turnsole color, or purple, for the number
of sheets which I mentioned before, that is, . . . ,[12]take
half an ounce of coarse white lead; and as much as a
bean of hematite; and grind them together as much as
ever you can; for ample grinding will not spoil it,
but improve it constantly. Temper it in the regular
way.
[continued]
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